Filling in the gaps.

Sunday 28^th Feb 2016.

Our last full day in G Town. Bit sad about that, we’re just getting the hang of how things work and actually giving bus advice to other tourists!! Today after breakfast we’re going to walk, yes walk, to the Padang and pop into Fort Cornwallis. The hottest part of the day seems to be about 2-3pm so we’re out early enough to cover some ground before we start to wilt. And there’s a cool breeze coming across the water, so it’s almost pleasant. There’s a big cruise ship docked, one departing and another off in the distance heading in. Our waiter at breakfast said the port has become much busier with cruise ships over the last 5 years, which makes sense because the street art thing really kicked off in about 2012. It’s become a real tourist drawcard, when it’s not eating time, and even today there was a noticeable increase in people looking for the street art in town, just because it’s Sunday. It’s a double edged sword – the traffic is a much reduced but there is more competition for photo ops at the various art sites. 

Fort Cornwallis was interesting, 20 MYR entry each, but we spent nearly an hour in there, took more time in the chapel because we could sit in the cool for a bit. Then we ran the gauntlet of taxi drivers outside, all offering to take us on to the next big tourist drawcard, but because we’ve been here for a week, we’ve covered most of it. 

Beach Rd (Lebuh Pantai), as in Singapore, used to run along the foreshore but now there’s another 2 cross streets before you get to the water. A section of it was closed off to traffic this morning which was a great relief and there was a bit of a craft market happening. We wandered around a bit, finding more street art that we’d missed the other day when we were looking, laughing at the German tourists who were standing right in front of the art they were looking for, counting the number of bodies that will be very sunburned and sore tonight and just generally being amazed at the number of people who are in town looking for the art.
The trishaws that ply their trade around town are very ordinary in appearance, not decorated in any way but a coat of paint, so when we saw a bunch of them coming down the street, heavily decorated with fake flowers, we knew at once that this was a tour group from the ship we saw arrive this morning. It’s funny how totally obvious it is when playing ‘spot the tourist’ and I know we fall into that category, but do our best not to. 

The afternoon was to be dedicated to shopping. Yay! I’d read that shoes were cheaper here than at home, from cheap shoes through to better quality, and all sorts of things like razors, make up, toiletries, toothbrushes, the list goes on! Shopping centre of choice was Prangin Mall, mainly because it’s right next to Komtar where the bus terminal is. All roads lead to Komtar! We jumped a bus and for the first time, there came a ticket inspector! He reminded us that today was the last day of our pass. Thanks for that. 

Hungry light is on, so first thoughts are to find food, which isn’t as easy as it sounds. This mall is over 7 or so floors – where’s the food? Eventually we find the ‘food garden’, oversell yourself much? Found a place selling claypot chicken rice for 5.50 MYR and that’s something I’ve been looking for here. When it comes, it’s very smokey and not as expected (to be expected), but edible, and a lime juice for 1.50 MYR washes it down.

I’d heard there was a Bata shoe shop here and they comfy shoes, so we find that and I buy a pair that I like, 80 MYR. Then it’s back out into the heat for some street market shopping where I’d seen a sundress hanging outside as we went past on the bus this morning. Looking through the rack, there isn’t one as nice as the one hanging outside and the lady gets it down for me, and shows me to the change room. Wow! They have a change room!! The place next door has a sign up – ‘no try’. Hmm, no try, me no buy! A bit dear at 50 MYR but what the heck, I like it and it fits.

The next shop we go into has dresses that could only be described as moo-moos, but they’re made of nice fabric and that’s the key. I bought one that I liked the fabric of, it’s 90cm wide and at least 3 straight metres of fabric. Seeing as I haven’t been able to find any fabric here that I like, this one for 13 MYR is an absolute bargain and makes up for the price of the first one.
Not too far to walk home and even though it’s hot it’s nice to have a bit more of a look around. We get back in plenty of time to have a swim and a relax by the pool. There are some people there moving some hairdressing salon equipment from one building to another and with them is a sweet little girl about 3 or 4 years old. She was quite obviously entranced by the pool and her mother (we think, she seems young) says something to her that we assume to be ‘stay away from the pool’. Anyway, she does go closer and both Trevor and I are ready to jump in after her if she falls. Her mother sees her and grabs her and drags her closer, threatening to throw her in. The little girl squeals and runs back from the edge. This scenario is repeated and I say to Trevor if it happens again, I probably won’t be able to watch on in silence. So what happens? The guy (we assume her fairly young father) picks her up and holds her at arm’s length over the water. That’s it, I see red! I yell ‘hey don’t do that’ and he replies that she’s naughty. Trevor says that doesn’t matter and I tell him he’s mean to do that to her. I was tempted to get up and push him in to see how he liked it, but I probably would have ended up in jail or something! Anyway, we were both pretty angry and the people disappeared into the building. We waited a while to see if they came back but they didn’t so we figured the little girl was safe from being thrown in the pool and we left, still with blood boiling. What a way to end our relaxing by the pool!

To be continued.

Going troppo.

Saturday 27^th Feb 2016.

It was very overcast this morning and we’re sure that the clouds held in the noise of the fighter jets as they performed their touch and go practice today.

Disappointed to find that we hadn’t been to Batu Feringghi yesterday we decide to give it another go with the added goal of finding the Tropical Spice Farm that we discovered is out that way. We set out a bit earlier but being Saturday the buses are very busy anyway and we have to stand all the way to the Spice Farm, about 45 minutes. Arriving just before a guided tour is about to start, we sign up for it because you usually get more out of a place if someone shows you around. We have a lovely guide called Lee and it’s just us and another couple. The tour lasts for over an hour, nearly an hour and a half really and of course it ends in the souvenir shop, or Boutique de Souvenir as written on the door, so much classier!

The trip out on the bus was very interesting, I think the driver may have been related to Lead Foot Lucy, our driver from the other day. The road from ‘civilisation’ out to BF is a bit winding in places and we were certainly bracing and hanging on for grim death in parts. My arms will probably ache tomorrow! On the way back, Trevor sat up the front hoping to take some video of the hairy ride, but the driver was much more sedate and the traffic heavier, so no luck.
We took the 101 to the end of the line, not a lot there but apparently the beach is quite pleasant and not as busy as the beach at BF. There’s a Hard Rock Café in BF so we stop there for a look and photo op and end up having lunch as well. Potato skins again (yay!) and chicken tenders with honey mustard dipping sauce and the smokiest bbq sauce you could imagine. Pints of Carlsberg for under $10 AU to wash them down.

The bus on the way back was fairly empty when we boarded to return to G Town but it filled up quickly, luckily we had seats this time. 

Dinner is going to be back at the Red Garden because there was such a good choice, we want to try some other dishes.



Update – Trevor got his fried squid, but not quite as he expected, as is to be expected here! He asked the seller for ‘no spicey’ and of course old mate says yes, no problem. So, it arrives, and it smells of ‘spicey’, and Trevor tells the guy he asked for ‘no spicey’. Doesn’t seem to compute….. least ‘no spicey’ is stir fried with black pepper, and seeing as they were prepared to cook another meal, Trevor says ok. The 2^nd plate arrives and it’s quite palatable, obviously a little peppery but nothing a Tiger can’t fix - 13 MYR. I had some Char Kway Teow, 5.50 MYR, this one had a couple of prawns but no chicken or scallops. Very nice all the same. Couldn’t bring myself to try another Malaysian dessert but wanted something, so settled for an ice cream cone, 3.50 MYR!! Crazy price!
We got talking to a family at the next table, the bloke was Irish, his wife was English, Grandpa and 2 kids, and they live ex-pat in Singapore. They had ordered so much food, they couldn’t eat it all and they also ordered 4 Asahi beers expecting small bottles but large ones arrived and instead of sending 2 back, they paid for all 4. There was no way 3 adults were going to get through all that beer (not Aussies), and the guy ended up offering one to Trevor, so, score!! We had a nice chat with them, the kids were 7 and 9 and probably don’t have many if any, memories of England, they’ve lived in Singapore for 4 or 5 years.

Hits and misses

Friday 26^th Feb 2016.

Another treat at breakfast today. Butterworth Air Force Base is just across the North Channel from Penang Island and we watched the jet fighters doing their practice landings and take-offs. They do have a name for it, I just can’t remember what it is. It might be touch and go……… We were lucky enough to see it yesterday as well from our perch in the Premier Lounge, for the beautiful people!! 

The Blue Mansion was on our list of things to visit yesterday but we realized this morning that we forgot to go there so headed there first thing. Entry is only at specific times via a tour and we missed the time slot and the next was too long away, so skipped that and on to the next thing.
The plan was to catch the 101 bus out to Batu Feringghi, the beach resort part of the island, and then call back in to Gurney Plaza, next to the night markets and find some food and perhaps a beer. Well, according to Google map on my phone, we arrived at Batu Feringghi and I must say, we were not very impressed at all. We walked along the beach for a bit and took some nice photos but we expected a scaled down Surfer’s Paradise type of place. This was nothing like it. Hungry, hot and thirsty, we headed back to the bus stop and went to Gurney Plaza where we found ‘Chicago’ a steak and rib joint. Oh the smell when we walked in……. pork heaven!!! We saw bacon at the hawker stalls last night – one streaky strip on a stick for 2.50 MYR – nearly $1 AU. Expensive!! Anyway, back to the story. We decided on the trio tasting plate, potato skins (nobody makes them at home any more), chicken wings and corn chips with some chilli con carne, not iconic Penang food, but it was worth going in just for the smell!  Found out later that it wasn’t Batu Feringghi. Bloody map!

Dinner was at Red Garden just over the road. It’s a hawker food court but a bit more upmarket. The drink man stills pounces as soon as you sit down, you give him your order for drinks and he goes off somewhere and gets them, then you go to the stall you want the food from, order and pay and they bring it to you. We had pork rice, similar to what we had when we came down from Kek Lok Si Temple, except with pork. Mmmmmm, pork………. It’s a scarce commodity in these parts.

Trevor saw some grilled squid and decided that might be nice so he went and ordered some – very disappointing. It was dried squid and covered in spicy stuff, either of which would have made it difficult to eat, but in combination, it was impossible. I don’t think I’ve ever seen him actually spit something out!!

Working our way through iconic Malaysian treats, I order Cendol which is a dessert that you order from the drink man. It was an interesting concoction and I wouldn’t bother to order it again, but it looked interesting enough to try. An icy rather than creamy dessert, a bit coffee in flavour topped with green spaghetti looking worms made from rice or sago flour and scattered with – wait for it – red kidney beans!! Like I said, interesting………….

The butcher, the baker, the joss stick maker.

Thursday 25^th Feb 2016.

Very hot and weary by the end of the day yesterday, so we decide to explore a bit closer to home today. There’s some street art closer that we haven’t seen yet and the building where Jimmy Choo began his shoe making apprenticeship is not far either, so it’d be a shame not to go by past and take a photo. I know a girl at home who loves her shoes and might like to see a pic. 

Before we headed out though, we got a surprise to see a helicopter coming in to land across the road at the school. There must be other VIP’s coming to town. And before we knew it, another one landed. Something big is going on! It’s surprising, although I guess it shouldn’t be, the amount of things to see and do quite close to our hotel. Street art is all over town, concentrated in the UNESCO World Heritage Zone, both paintings and 3D steel art on the walls. We’re in the Buffer Zone, and there is still a smattering here too. We also found a Laundromat that would be handy if we came back and stayed somewhere cheaper. I think it was in Love Lane, so named because all the wealthy gents who lived in Muntri Road kept their mistresses in the lane around the corner. 

Wandered around following our street art map and there was a joss stick maker marked in Lorong Muda, so we went there next and were absolutely amazed at the dear little old man who, at 88, still gets up every day and is busy at work sitting 6 inches off the ground, making Joss sticks so as to be able to put them in the morning sun across the road to dry. Mr Lee was his name and he only spoke Chinese. Fortunately for us, his 55 year old son had recently returned home to care for him after the death of his wife, and he spoke English as well as Chinese. The sandalwood comes from the forests of Western Australia and we all got a bit of a laugh when we said we were from Australia too. I hope we can get them back through Oz border control.
Mr Lee the Younger took us inside his father’s house and showed us 3 dragons that his father had made, all kept in separate perspex boxes, about 300mm size. He made them many years ago and each one took him 2 months to make, another facet to his abilities. They’ve turned down large sums of money from people wanting to buy them, saying that when they die, if there’s no-one to carry on the business, the dragons will go to the museum. It’s no wonder, they were so intricate and beautiful. 

They offered us a go at trying to make a joss stick, Mr Lee the Elder made it look so easy. It also looked like poo, so we politely declined. Mr Lee the Elder said it kept him young, the smell is good for his lungs and keeping busy is good for him. Mr Lee the Younger wanted us to smell the fragrance of the combined sandalwood and incense and also for quality control, so he lit one and it did smell quite nice. There’s no chemicals added to the mix so nothing to irritate the eyes or nose. They were very proud of that fact. 

We’ve had the most interesting conversations with the locals, it’s been one of the best parts of Penang, and would certainly recommend taking the time to others. What a great discovery these 2 men were and to think, we’d never have ventured down that particular street if we’d seen all the street art there. We realized we’d missed a good one yesterday, so went back today.

The Penang Museum sounded interesting. All the reviews I’d read didn’t rave much about the content, but the a/c and 1 MYR entry fee. “If you’re not interested in history and don’t like museums, don’t go there”, well DER!! Anyway, we forked out the entry fee, found the clean loo, and basked in the very inefficient a/c whilst we browsed the history of Penang. We found it quite interesting and we learned a bit about the founding of European settlement and trade here and a lot about the ethnic mix of the place. It’s a real melting pot, Malays, Acehnese from Aceh in Indonesia, Arabs, Armenians, British, Burmese, Germans, Jews, Chinese, Gujeratis from India, Bengalis, Japanese, Punjabis, Sindhis, Tamils, Thais, Malayalees from Kerala, Rawas from West Papua, Javanese, Mandailings from Northern Sumatra, Portuguese, Eurasians and others, all living together , and not always peacefully. A lot of these groups are gone now but they have left reminders of their presence in the names of many roads and their cemeteries.

As we arrived at the museum the sirens we had been hearing all day got much closer and there was much cheering and celebratory noise. Surely couldn’t be for us?? No, it’s the Tour de Langkawi going through town. I can’t believe they race bicycles in this heat!!

Fried oysters for lunch at Kedai Kopi Gou Lou on Lorong Kampung Malabar
10MYR for a big plateful and 16MYR for 2 beers. Caught the CAT bus back. Don’t think the driver knew if she was meant to be driving the pink route or the blue route!

Chill out time by the pool, water a bit too cold considering the wind that was blowing so dipped our feet and had a cold drink.

Dinner – decided to venture out to the Gurney Hawker markets on the 101 bus, driven by Lead Foot Lucy. Wished I had brought my hungry stomach. Been ticking off some food, but there’s still more to try. Trevor paid 4 MYR for some fried mantis shrimp, chopped up and battered – the closest we’ve come so far to getting any.
Bought another sundress – 20 MYR, similar to the one I bought in BKK.

101 bus back to Komtar then onto the 204 heading for the jetty. Got off around the corner to buy some drinks on the way home.